Dockrig

Fishing Knot Tying Tools: What Each Type Does

By Cal Brannock · house pen name of the Dockrig editors · who writes here · Updated

Dockrig is reader-supported. When you buy through links on this page, we may earn a commission.

Knot tools do 4 jobs: holding tension, forming turns, threading small eyes and cutting line.

Each type lines up with certain knots, and each has a few specs to check on the package.

None of these tools are required. Every knot on Dockrig can be tied by hand. Tools help with 3 problems: tension on braid, small hook eyes and clean cuts.

Tool types at a glance

Tool typeWhat it doesKnots it helps withLineHand-tie instead?
FG knot bobbinholds braid under tension while you wrapFG knotbraid to leaderyes, with practice
Handheld knot tyerholds the line and hook while you form turnsclinch, nail knot typesmono, fluoroyes
Hook tying toolgrips a small hook and guides the wrapssnell, small-hook knotsmono, fluoroyes
Nail knot toola tube or slot to pass the tag under the wrapsnail knotfly line, leaderyes
Split ring pliers with cutteropens split rings, cuts linenone directly; trims tagsall, check braid ratingn/a
Line clippertrims tags closeevery knot that leaves a tagmono, fluoro; braid if ratedn/a

The first 4 rows help you tie. The last 2 help you finish. For most anglers, a sharp clipper does more for knot quality than any tying aid.

6 tool types in outline, grouped by job: tension (FG bobbin), forming turns (knot tyer, hook tool, nail knot tool), cutting (pliers with cutter, clipper). Tap to enlarge.

Tension: FG knot bobbins

The FG knot wraps braid around a leader 15 to 20 times. The braid must stay tight the whole time. Most failures come from slack wraps.

A bobbin holds the braid spool or a short length of braid. Its weight keeps tension while you swing it around the leader. Some anglers use a bobbin knotter made for braid. Others use a fly-tying bobbin.

Who it suits: anglers who tie the FG often, on a boat or at a bench. If you tie 1 FG a season, a double uni may be simpler.

The bobbin also helps with spacing. Each wrap lands where the last 1 left off. So 15 or 20 wraps come out even instead of bunched in clumps along the leader.

PE numbers on Japanese tackle describe braid size. They don't map neatly to lb test across brands. Check the bobbin's range against your braid's spool label.

Turns: handheld knot tyers

A handheld knot tyer holds the hook and line in place. You twist or pass the line around a post to form turns, then slide the knot off onto the eye.

It helps most with small hooks, cold hands and poor eyesight. An improved clinch on a #10 hook is fiddly by hand. A tyer holds things still.

The tradeoff is time. Once you learn a knot, tying by hand is usually faster. A clinch takes most practiced anglers well under a minute, and a tyer adds a step for loading the hook.

Turns: hook tying tools

Hook tying tools are small and simple. Many are a slotted tube or a grip. They guide the wraps for a snell or a small-hook knot.

The snell needs 7 even wraps along the shank. A tool keeps the wraps from crossing. It also holds the line along the shank while you wrap.

Who it suits: anglers snelling a batch of hooks at home. Catfish and panfish anglers often pre-tie 10 or 20 snells before a trip.

Nail knot tools

A nail knot tool is a tube or a slotted needle. You wrap the line around it, then pass the tag back through the tube under the wraps. Pull the tool out and tighten.

It's mostly a fly fishing tool. The nail knot joins a fly line to a leader, and the coated fly line is too thick and slick for most of the knots on this site to grip well. Freshwater spinning and baitcasting anglers rarely need it.

If you fish flies, a simple tube works, and so does an actual nail or a thin straw.

Cutting: split ring pliers with a cutter

Pliers do a lot on the water. Many fishing pliers have a split ring tip and a line cutter near the jaw, like these split ring pliers with serrated line cutters.

For knots, the cutter matters. Braid needs a sharp, tight-fitting blade. A cutter that crushes braid leaves a frayed tag. Look for cutters rated for braid.

The split ring tip is a bonus. You'll use it changing hooks on crankbaits and jerkbaits. A 3-hook jerkbait has 3 rings, and opening them with a fingernail gets old fast.

Cutting: line clippers

A clipper is the tool you'll use most. Every knot ends with a trim, so a day with 20 retied knots means 20 or more cuts.

Trim length matters. About 1/16 in. on mono and fluoro. About 1/8 in. on braid. A clipper with a flat, sharp edge makes that easy.

Some clippers, such as a line clipper with a retractor, clip to a vest or shirt, which keeps the clipper within reach and stops it from going over the side when you drop it in a hurry.

Some have a small needle for clearing hook eyes. Neither is essential. A sharp edge is.

Which tool for which knot

Which tool type helps with which knot on Dockrig. A clipper trims the tag on every knot here. Tap to enlarge.

Every knot that leaves a tag ends with a clipper. The dropper loop is the 1 knot here with no tag to trim. It's tied in the middle of the line, and a pencil to hold the loop in step 3 is all it needs.

On braid, the cutter is the tool that matters most. See knots for braided line for the trim rules.

Where tools help on the water

Tying by hand vs with a tool

Most of the knots on Dockrig take 4 to 7 steps. With 20 or 30 practice ties at home, hands are fast enough for all of them.

Tools earn their place in 3 cases.

If none of those apply, skip the tying aids. Buy a good clipper and practice.

Practicing knots at home

A tool can't replace practice. Nothing does. The cheapest training aid is 2 colors of line and a hook with the point cut off.

Tie each knot 10 times at a table. Use 20 lb mono at first, since thicker line shows the turns clearly. Then drop to the line you fish, 8 or 10 lb.

For line-to-line knots, use 2 colors. You'll see which turns belong to which side of a double uni. For the FG, practice with a bobbin and without. That tells you if the bobbin is worth carrying.

Count turns out loud. 5, 6 or 7 matters, and it's easy to lose track.

Time yourself once you're comfortable. If a knot takes more than 2 minutes, a tool may help. If it takes 30 seconds, you probably don't need 1.

Building a small knot kit

You don't need all 5 types. Here's what we'd carry for a few common setups.

Keep the kit in 1 small pouch. The tool you can't find doesn't help.

Care and storage

Rinse pliers and clippers in fresh water after a trip. Dry them before they go back in the box. A drop of light oil on the pivot keeps them opening smoothly.

Blades dull over time, faster on braid. If a clipper starts crushing 10 lb braid instead of cutting it, replace it or the blade.

Store bobbins with the braid wound on loosely. Tight braid on a small spool can dig in and tangle.

Common mistakes with knot tools

  1. Cutting braid with mono clippers. The tag frays and the knot looks unfinished.
  2. Trimming flush. Leave about 1/16 in. on mono and 1/8 in. on braid.
  3. Leaning on a tyer instead of learning the knot. Know the hand version for the day the tool is lost.
  4. Wet tools in a closed box. Plain steel can start to rust.
  5. The wrong hook range. Check the size range before you rely on a tool.

What to check on the label

Package claims are worth a second look.

How to pick

  1. Do you tie the FG? Then a bobbin is worth a look.
  2. Do you struggle with small hooks? A knot tyer or hook tool.
  3. Do you use braid? A braid-rated cutter or clipper.
  4. Do you change trebles? Split ring pliers.
  5. Everyone: a sharp clipper.

Gear for this page

Sources: knot steps and turn counts from the linked knot pages. Product details from the maker's listing in each box. Method on our methodology page..